Suit Up: Crafting The Deck

 The Deck Illustrations The Deck Illustrations

Having worked for renowned Savile Row tailor, Huntsman, Daisy Knatchbull realised there was a demand for a brand that specialised in made-to-order suits exclusively for women. She was the first woman to wear a morning suit at Royal Ascot and from then on, The Deck was born.

The brand seeks to empower women and allow them to express themselves through the way they dress. Made just for you, encouraging you to value the considered purchase, Daisy ensures the piece will be loved for a lifetime so the styling details; cloth, lining, button, even thread colour and monogramming are all chosen by you.

The Deck works with highly skilled artisans and craftsmen, helping to keep long traditions, techniques and cultures alive, which is exactly what we like to see at The Restory.

How did
The Deck come to fruition?

I have always had an interest in fashion, and from a young age worked within different roles in the industry, whether that was fashion journalism, styling or PR. I worked for the Fashion Director of the Sunday Times Style before moving to Huntsman for just over 3 years and becoming their Communications Director. I was lucky enough to be the first women to wear top hat and tails at Royal Ascot in 2016 whilst working for Huntsman and it was the reaction of the women and the press that made me realise there was a serious demand for women that wasn’t necessarily being met in the same way it was for men. It has never been a better time to be a women and things needed to change and so The Deck began – a business for women that understands the needs and wants of today’s females and empowers them through one of the greatest forms of expressionism – the way one dresses.

 Founder Daisy Knatchbull Founder Daisy Knatchbull

Where does the name come from?

The business is called The Deck as we offer four styles of suits in the same way there are 4 suits in a deck of cards. It is also representative of ‘reshuffling’ the way we think about tailoring and prioritising women for the first time. Every suit comes with a little Ace of Spades stitched into the inner cuff of the right sleeve reminding our clients we all have an ace up our sleeve!

What makes a good suit?

Two fold: something that makes its wearer stand taller and feel bolder and gives a feeling of empowerment and celebration of their body shape (and actually fits!) but also the use of good quality and ethically sourced cloths from British mills (preferably using natural fibres). And of course something that is beautifully crafted! Once you experience the feeling of a good suit it is almost impossible to ever go back to it being anything other than perfect!

 The Spade in Blue Pinstripe The Spade in Blue Pinstripe

 The Spade in Green Velvet   The Spade in Green Velvet

What happens in the initial consultation?

It begins with us learning everything we can about the client. What she does, where she goes, what she loves in her wardrobes, what she loves about her body. We then try on the four different styles we offer and work out which jacket and trouser she prefers. From there our tailor takes measurements against our blocks to create their clients own unique garment based on their choice of styling details, cloth, lining, button, even thread colour and monogramming. This is then sent to our seamstresses in Portugal – (one of the best European ateliers used by many of the Savile Row houses for their made to measure) and the garment will then come back for what we call a ‘baste fitting’ where we check that everything is as it should and the client is happy, it then goes away again and comes back for a final fitting where tweaks and adjustments can be made before the finished result and the client being the envy of all women!

What’s the sourcing process like for buttons and materials for the lining and the suit itself?

We are very lucky to be working with the best in the business. 90% of our cloths come from British Mills (10% Italian) and we work very closely with all of the Savile Row cloth merchants to ensure we are always sourcing the best quality cloth on the market. For buttons and lining we work with brilliant British brands such as Bernstein & Banley and Courtney & Co. We have linings made from wood pulp and buttons made from nuts and milk fibres! We work with all the same suppliers theSavile Row houses work with to ensure quality is never compromised. We have everything from velvet to corduroy to black tie to linen to flannel. You name it we can source it!

 The Club in Oatmeal Linen, the Spade in Green Velvet and the Diamond in Camel Cotton The Club in Oatmeal Linen, the Spade in Green Velvet and the Diamond in Camel Cotton

How long does it take to make a suit and where are they made?

The process takes around 8 weeks with 3 appointments over that time. Our suits are made with one of the best European ateliers used by many of the Savile Row houses for their made to measure as well as initial fittings and final alterations being done by our talented tailor here in London!

What’s special about how each of the 4 cuts are crafted and how did you decide on them?

We were very lucky to have worked with one of the best female pattern cutters in the industry to create the four ’suits of the deck’ to ensure we cater to a variety of different needs and body shapes. Each of the four looks satisfied a particular way we believe women wanted to express themselves, and each are easily adaptable to fulfill the requirements of each client who can then personalise styling details, buttons, lining, cloth, monogramming etc. If someone wants a yellow corduroy suit with their name embroidered on the back with ostrich feathers on the cuffs we can do it! The four styles are just the tarting point, the only limitation is the clients’ imagination.

 The Diamond in Cotton Camel The Diamond in Cotton Camel

Tell us how sustainability is seamlessly part of the craft of the brand?

Sustainability and mindful purchasing is an intrinsic part of The Deck philosophy. We value the considered, not the impulse purchase. By producing only on a made-to-order basis, each piece is made just for you, only when you decide you need it. With no inventory or bulk order fabrics, we are able to eliminate waste from our business, counteracting the devastating scale of overproduction that is currently going on in the fashion industry, the majority of which often ends up in landfill.

We work with highly skilled artisans and craftsmen, helping to keep long traditions, techniques and cultures alive. Alongside this, we are committed to using responsible materials and natural fibres such as wool, linen, and organic cotton, which are all naturally biodegradable. We also offer buttons made from milk and linings made from wood pulp.

As investment pieces that are multi-seasonal, durable and versatile, we are confident that The Deck suits will stand the test of time in our clients wardrobe, and we hope that they will be passed down generations to come. A small, versatile and considered wardrobe can be mighty – particularly for the planet. Should anything need repairing we will of course do this free of charge.

We believe that today, a brand is not only about the product and the experience – but the ethos and belief system that underpins that.

Head to their website to find out more and check out their Instagram @decklondon for more inspiration.